A friend sent me this video…can I train my kids to do this too! Enjoy
Posts Tagged ‘dog urine’
We have had stormy weather these last few weeks, and when I say it’s time for our walk, Simon gets this look on his face as if to say, “Are you kidding?”
Unless it’s really storming out, I coax him out for his walk so he gets his daily exercise and fresh air, and then spray him down with Clean+Green to get rid of that wet dog smell when we come home.
What do you do?
Simon and Quincy
For all of you who are hearing this request from your children for Christmas…http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7yA2VWAlWaM&feature=related
Ever wonder what your pet would say to you? These pet owners don’t have to guess! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=skE2dq3cm0A
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The last few days have been gorgeous! I was talking to friends in Missouri, New York and Pennsylvania, and everyone was saying how nice it is to get outside and were soooooo looking forward to Spring. It’s been a tough winter (weather wise) and everyone is tired of being cooped up in the house… especially those with pets.
When it rains, Simon really has to be coaxed to go out for his walk or to the park. I can’t imagine what he would do if there was 6 inches of snow outside and the ground was freezing. Knowing Simon, he would just sit there, give me a look like “Are you crazy?”, and just refuse to budge. Now, since I am a real softy when it comes to him, I wonder what I would do.
The reason this struck me today is that I have noticed that our customers are now ordering our (new) concrete products. I wondered why, when it suddenly struck me that winter was over and that the weather was warming up. Could it be that during the winter, when no human or animal in their right mind would willingly venture out into the cold, rainy and/or snowy outdoors, that pets had used the basement or patio areas instead of going outside? And now that things were warming up, the odors that were dormant in cold were now “smelling” with the weather getting warm?
If this is the case, Simon and I thought it was time to talk about cleaning up concrete so Simon’s pals don’t get in trouble. Once they have marked (on the concrete), Simon’s pals will go back and mark the same spot over and over again. So here goes.
Concrete Cleaning – Do’s and Don’ts
Things To Know
- Concrete is porous. Yes, this very hard material is porous with lots of air bubbles for urine to hide and dry up in. If your concrete has not been sealed (or the seal has come off), liquids will definitely penetrate the surface and dry in the concrete.
- When it was cold, smells are usually pretty dormant. When it warms up, the smell appears and gets more intense the warmer it gets. It is not that the problem wasn’t there (in the cold), it just that biodegradation is really slow in cold, and revs up in hot environments.
- The more humid the environment, the more the urine will penetrate
- Do not paint over or seal concrete before you get rid of the deposited urine. Painting or sealing the concrete will not prevent the urine from biodegrading and throwing off the urine odor. You are just going to have to strip the seal off and get to the urine once you find it has not worked.
- Get rid of any excess liquids and/or other materials from the concrete before treating.
- Make sure that the area is aerated when you are cleaning the concrete. Why? See my blog on Why Urine Smells Like Ammonia.
- Use Clean+Green Concrete and Grout or other concrete cleaning products
- Apply the cleaning agent to an area larger than the stain on top of the concrete. Why? Because pet urine tends to spread as it soaks into the concrete 2″ to 3″ wider than on the surface. Caution: When you apply the cleaning agent, the smell will be very intense initially. Why? When urine dries, it crystallizes. When you apply the cleaning agent, the urine crystals liquefy and the smell gets intense before it is eliminated.
- You don’t have to, but I would recommend getting something like push broom and use this after applying the cleaning agent. Why? To get as much of the product deep into the concrete as possible. Remember, no cleaning agent can work unless it can come in physical contact with the urine.
- When treating the concrete, be patient and thorough. If there is a lot of urine, it can be down deep into the concrete. Remember, the cleaning agent can only get rid of what it can touch. As the urine closest to the surface is reached and eliminated, the next layer will be drawn up to the surface. You will need apply the cleaning solution again, and again until all of the urine is gone.
- Once you are sure that all the urine is gone, I would recommend that you seal the concrete.
Quincy and Simon
I read a review sent in from Ben in Sacramento the other day and I just had to share it because of 2 things: keeping safe and saving money too!
Here is what Ben wrote: “I called several businesses that advertised they would eliminate the urine odor from my car and car seats but they charged in the vicinity of $200. I called the phone number listed on the can of Clean+Green and talked to Dennis. He was extremely helpful. He advised that I spray the product into the car’s air conditioning filters located under the hood. I did this twice and also applied spray to the leather seats. The smell was gone the next day. Thanks for saving me lots of money!”
Ever notice that urine smells like ammonia? Do you know why urine smells like ammonia? Urine is high in nitrates, compounds high in nitrogen and oxygen. Ammonia is made up of nitrogen and hydrogen (NH3). What you are smelling is the high concentration of bonded nitrogen.
So, when urine smells like ammonia, you need to make sure that the area is aerated and you take steps to get rid of the smell because adverse health effects are possible. Strong ammonia odors can cause eye, nose, or throat irritation to humans and pets!
It looked like Ben saved up to $200 by using Clean+Green and getting the right tips on how to use it properly. Here are the instructions that Ben got from Dennis.
Use the Clean+Green Auto product. When odors are detected throughout the interior of your car you will need to follow these instructions:
- lift the hood of your car and locate the intake vent(s) for the air conditioning/heating system (intake vent(s) are generally located below the windshield, and could be one long vent or two short vents),
- start your vehicle and then turn on the air conditioning system with the fan on the “high” setting,
- lower one of the rear windows by 2 to 3 inches (if there is no rear window then lower front passenger seat by 2 to 3 inches), and then
- spray directly into the intake vents for a period of 3 to 7 seconds. Wait about 5 minutes and repeat spray process, then wait another 5 minutes before turning off the air conditioning and checking for odors in the interior of the vehicle.
For “accidents” on fabric or the carpet, use Clean+Green Carpet & Upholstery. For accidents on vinyl or leather, use Clean+Green Auto.
Hope this keeps you (and your pets) safe and saves you money like it did Ben!
Quincy and Simon
After a lot of prodding and pushing, I have started my Carpet Cleaning blog entry. You wouldn’t think this was such a hard thing to write about, but it is…and to do it right, I am going to do a series of blogs on the subject.
To begin, I am going to give you a shorten version of the training we give to our customer service folks. They are the ones who answer your phone calls so everyone gets Basic Cleaning 101 before they are allowed to talk to you.
If you have ever called in and asked about using Clean+Green to clean a pet mess on your carpet or area rug, you will probably remember being asked the following questions:
Question 1: What kind of carpet are you cleaning?
Question 2: What type of mess you cleaning?
Question 3: How long has the problem existed? new or old?
Question 4: What other products have you used on your carpet?
Well, we are asking you these questions because they are all important for us to help you determine if you should or should not use Clean+Green, and to give you directions on how to clean-up the stain and odor mess.
Question #1 What kind of carpet are you cleaning?
Why is it important to know what kind of carpet you are cleaning? Because the best method of cleaning will depend on the type of carpet you want to clean. Different carpets will respond better to different carpet cleaning treatments. The wrong carpet cleaning method could ruin your carpet!
Carpet Fiber Types Pros & Cons
There are a lot of different carpet fiber types, but I will focus on the four most popular ones and give the pro and cons (as they relate to appearance, features and cleaning) for each:
- Good Elasticity – Nylon will stretch up to 33% of its length and still regain its original shape.
- Very Abrasion Resistant – It even surpasses wool.
- Heat Sets Well – When properly heat set, nylon retains its crimp, twist, and dye extremely well.
- Good resiliency – Nylon can be crushed for long periods and still regain its original shape.
- Non-Absorbent – Nylon dries quickly since it will absorb less than 8% of its weight in H20.
- Mildew Resistant – Nylon provides no food source.
- Nylon responds very well to most professional cleaning methods and treatments.
- Nylon is almost always acid dyed, so it can have problems with bleaching, fading, urine reactions, etc.
- Polyester is usually solution dyed which makes it very resistant to bleaching, fading and soil dye reactions.
- Stain Resistant – This applies only to water based stains.
Low Absorbency – Quick drying
- It is not resistant to oily stains, and in fact an oily spill or spot left without proper cleanup can oxidize and even chemically bond with and become part of the fiber. You need to know that some of these spots just won’t come out.
Olefin has become almost synonymous with one of its trade names “Herculon” a trademark owned by Hercules Corporation, a major manufacturer of olefin.
- Olefin is very moisture resistant. It will absorb only one tenth of 1% of its weight in water.
- Very difficult to stain.
- Chemical Resistant – Most chemicals and bleaches won’t damage it at all
- Solution dyeing makes it resistant to fading.
- It has good cleanability and stain release. (Except oil/petroleum-based stains – see cons)
- Olefin is not a resilient fiber. When crushed it does not regain its original shape easily. Traffic areas tend to lie down, showing “apparent soiling”. Furniture marks can be permanent reminders to the owner of where his furniture used to be.
- It is a very heat sensitive fiber. Its melting point is around 300 degrees but damage can occur at lower temperatures.
- Olefin can be damaged by friction – Even dragging a heavy piece of furniture across an olefin carpet can cause permanent marks from the heat generated by friction.
- Like polyester, extended exposure to oil-based soils may become permanent.
- Olefin is very difficult to dye due to its low absorbency rate. It is almost always solution dyed.
- Quite often, Olefin is in a glue-down situation, which creates a potential to brown from soil wicking from the base of the yarns due to incomplete soil removal. Over wetting and/or slow drying increases the likelihood.
- Wool has excellent soil hiding capabilities. Wool will not exhibit or show soil as much as other fibers.
- Wool is very strong, elastic and resilient. Wool face yarn in a well-constructed carpet will stand up to the heaviest traffic and still look beautiful.
- Good Absorbency – This means that wool reacts well to a number of dye types and techniques. Keep in mind, this means easy staining also.
- Soil Release – Wool responds very well to cleaning as moisture makes the fiber swell and release dirt.
- Wool is naturally flame retardant.
- Fiber Distortion – Wool is very prone to distortion by excess agitations such as jet streaks and wand marks. This is particularly pronounced when it happens under heated conditions.
- Stains Easily – Due to its absorbency and ease of dyeing, wool is also easily stained by wine, Kool-Aid and other acid dyestuffs.
- Chemical Sensitivity – Wool is sensitive to alkaline chemicals above a pH of 9.5 after prolonged exposure. This exposure will tend to make wool brittle and discolor somewhat. Wool is also very sensitive to chlorine bleach; it will completely dissolve wool within a matter of minutes. The New Zealand Wool Bureau recommends water-based cleaning solutions with a pH not lower than 5.5 and not higher than 8 pH.
Solution Dye vs. Acid Dye
Solution dyeing is a yarn coloration process in which pigment is added to the polymer melt before the fiber is extruded into yarn. The color, therefore, is an inherent part of the yarn itself. Although solution dyeing does not offer as wide a color selection as other dye methods, its colors are the most permanent. Solution dyed yarn is highly resistant to color loss through fading from sunlight, ozone, or harsh cleaning agents and bleach. The solution dyeing process is, in addition, environmentally friendly and efficient, using little water or energy.
Acid dyeing is the process of in which dyes are added to the yarn or fabric. They are often applied from an acidic solution in order to intensify the staining. The acid used in the dye bath is often vinegar (acetic acid) or citric acid. The uptake rate of the dye is controlled with the use of sodium chloride. Acid dyes are generally divided into three classes which depend on fastness requirements, level dyeing properties and economy. The classes overlap and generally depend on type of fiber to be colored and also the process used.
Nylon carpets are usually acid dyed so it can have problems with bleaching, fading and urine reactions. It heat sets well so responds well to most professional cleaning methods and treatments.
Polyester carpets are usually solution dyed so they are resistant to bleaching, fading and soil dye reactions. It is not resistant to oily stains, and in fact an oily spill or spot left without proper cleaning can oxidize and even chemically bond with and become part of the fiber. You need to know that some of these spots just won’t come out, so you need to treat a polyester carpet as soon as possible before a stain sets.
Olefin carpets are usually solution dyed so they are resistant to fading. Most chemical and bleaches won’t damage it. However, it is very heat sensitive. Because it is a glue-down situation, over wetting and/or slow drying increases the chance of the carpeting to brown.
Wool carpets stain easily and are the most sensitive carpets to clean. They should never be treated with hot water. In fact, hot water could ruin the carpet. Keep bleach and chemicals as far away from the wool carpet as possible. Only water-based cleaning solutions with a pH not lower than 5.5 and not higher than 8 pH should be used.
Color Fast Testing. Regardless of the carpet type, we ALWAYS recommend that you do a color fast test a hidden spot on your carpet before using any cleaning method or product. Regardless if it is a solution dyed or acid dyed carpet, the quality of the dye job is always a factor as to whether the dye will hold.
Now that you understand why we ask Question 1 (What kind of carpet are you cleaning?), look for my next blog for Question 2 – What type of mess you cleaning?
Quincy and Simon
My children were older, we got a dog and I was tired of cleaning the carpet. About 10 years ago, we decided to get rid of the wall to wall carpeting in our home. The great news was that we uncovered beautiful hardwood floors through most of the house; one of the few benefits of having an old 1928 San Francisco home. The bad news is that we and our furniture had to move out of the house for 2 weeks while the contractor sanded the floors, put in new laminate wood floors where there was just concrete, and then lay down 3 layers of clear coat floor. The good news is we came home to beautiful floors that have held up! After having wood floors, I know why people are constantly asking, is this (product) safe on wood? There are a lot of misconceptions about cleaning and maintaining wood floors, and then there are some really simple common sense things to do. Thought I’d share.
- Minimize water and liquids on the floor. Natural wood floors expand and contract due to moisture. So, wipe up spills ASAP, and definitely do not leave large amounts of liquids on the wood as this will make it swell, and possible cause the floor to crack.
- Stiletto heels are veroten unless you want to plan to have a mosaic of floor pock marks. Since I stopped wearing heels, especially stiletto heels, after having my first child, this is not a problem for me.
- Trim your dog’s and cat’s nails regularly because they are the animal world’s version of stiletto heels when left to sharpen.
- Put floor guards on your chairs and furniture. The last thing you want to hear is a scratching noise as you pull out the chair from the table.
- Place mats at all entry doorways to trap dirt and grit off of shoes entering the house. Dirt and grit are like sandpaper on wood so keep them out!
- Make sure that your wood floor finish is in good condition. If not, make sure to put on a maintenance coat. The finish protects the wood, and if the finish is worn away, your wood is left unprotected.
Cleaning Do’s and Dont’s
- Don’t vacuum your wood floor using an attachment that has hard bristles or rotors.
- Do vacuum your wood floor with bare floor attachments.
- Do lightly sweep the wood floor with a soft-bristled broom or dust mop regularly. I think this is a better way to clean wood floors versus vacuuming, but that’s my preference.
- Don’t clean your floor with just water or any cleaner that requires you to use a lot of liquid; water/liquids are not your floor’s friend and cause the wood and the finish to deteriorate.
- Don’t use vinegar and water or any other acidic solution that will harm the wood finish.
- Don’t use oil soaps. They leave a harmful film and can build up and create problems when it’stime to put a maintenace coat on the floor.
- Do use neutral pH cleaners made specifically for wood floors such as Clean+Green for Wood & Tile.
Well, there are my major Do’s and Don’ts. Will they be yours?
Quincy and Simon
Hello and Welcome to our first blog posting!
I am Quincy and this is Simon, our 6th child. Simon and I are both excited about being able to share our stories and thoughts with you. With our blended family of 8 (mom and dad, 2 girls, 3 boys and 1 very large furry dog), a large extended family and all our kids’ friends flowing through our house, we definitely have first hand experience on the challenges of trying to keep a clean and safe home that is truly “lived in.” As most women know, this is a never ending and sometimes seemingly impossible feat when you open your home to friends and family.
After the dot.com bust and over 20 years in high tech, I decided to take time out to focus on the family and also finally succumbed to my husband and kids’ pressure to add a dog to our crew; I’d resisted this as I knew that I would end up taking care of the dog in spite of all my kids’ promises and just did not think I could handle this given my work schedule and pressures. Well, I didn’t have this excuse anymore, so we rescued Simon and he became our 6th child.
Well….now he is the reason I religiously take a morning walk every day, and he (along with my children) are the reason I started SeaYu Enterprises. Simon brought a whole new dimension in trying to keep a home clean. You can’t tell him to take off his shoes (he has none) so you can’t prevent him from tromping dirt through the house, he does have accidents in the house even though he is house trained, and he can’t help having a doggy smell between baths! The other thing I soon found out was that Simon’s system is more sensitive to chemicals and foods than even my (human) children.
I guess this brings us to the mission we have at SeaYu. At SeaYu, we love animals and we care about the world we live in. As a mom, I want a clean home, I absolutely have to have a safe home, and I want to do everything I can to preserve this earth for my kids. Through our blog, Simon and I plan to share our stories and tips on how we ALL can do this.
Quincy and Simon